To celebrate Couture Week, Mellerio dits Meller in conjunction with Couture designer Alexandre Vauthier has presented a High Jewellery collection.
Once Jeweller to the Queens of Europe, Mellerio has of late been treading water, a rift in the rapidly-changing world of international jewellery. This last bastion of independent, family-owned Maisons, the first in the Place Vendome/ Rue de La Paix district, has been in danger of fading into obscurity.
Vauthier started his career under the tutelage of Thierry Mugler and then Jean-Paul Gaultier, before launching his own Couture brand in 2009. His style is sharp, sexy and much en vogue among press and celebrities.
Which is why this surprising partnership so grabbed my attention.
The collaboration with Mellerio proves a natural evolution for the designer, who has already created jewellery accessories for his own collections, with long-standing aspirations to high jewellery.
Sign of a true couturier, Vauthier’s efforts reflect the fluidity and movement of fabric on skin. Evident is considerable attention to detail: from the V and M signature on the drawing pattern, to the modernity of the single earring that transforms into a long pendant.
Even if we still yearn for truly exceptional pieces, the result is strong, delicate and bold for the Maison. By this measure, only the ring was quite underwhelming.
Clearly the collaboration has brought a welcome injection of Mojo. Along with the coming renovation of the boutique and its plans to double its turnover in the next 5 years, Gilles Haumont – the new CEO since September 2014 – is unfurling the Maison’s sails and bringing the grand Lady into the wind.
It was truly a treat to rediscover Mellerio, the more so for their generous offer to allow me to glimpse the archives of the world’s oldest jeweler – a rare privilege indeed. So go out there and open the door of the 9 rue de la Paix. Just as many others before in 400 years of history, you may again find something to treasure.